Thursday, December 30, 2010

From Asheville to Abidjan..

This is a very good break.

I say this even though I am filled with impatience. I am chomping at the bit for next semester to begin. I’m so excited for next semester. I’m like... doing backflips about next semester. And, of course, I still hate transitions, so I’m bouncing around anxiously wanting to rush through it and get to next semester. BUT, this is a very good break. It’s turned out to be a very busy one. I thought it would be just the opposite. But somehow it’s worked out that I’m traveling constantly. Never in one place for much more than a week, often only a couple days. I’m leaving Charleston, SC today to head up to Montreat. Back to “my beloved mountain”. My spiritual stomping grounds.

Note: I’ve gotten pretty well-versed with various modes of travel, particularly over this past semester with my own little Grand Tour in Europe. However, this trip up to North Carolina is my first solo roadtrip. Mostly because I didn’t get my driver’s license until winter break my sophomore year of COLLEGE. Have hated driving my entire life, except that it gives me free reign to embarrassingly belt out showtunes in the front seat. I have made every excuse not to drive. (Including, “It gives me jaw tension and all of first year Voice and Speech I was working to get rid of jaw tension!”) I am really hopeless at suburban navigation. BUT I’m excited for this trip and am feeling that freedom of having a car, a suitcase, and a road ahead of me that most people feel when they’re... 16. Better late than never?

For those of you who have joined in recently on this blog, I worked at Montreat for the past two summers, operating sound for conferences, and yes, it was the best job ever. I will be reuniting with my friends from the past two summers at Montreat Summer Staff Reunion for New Year’s, then attending MONTREAT COLLEGE CONFERENCE. I am so excited for College Conference. I’ve never been to College Conference before.. in fact, I haven’t been a conferee at a Montreat conference since 2004. It will be both fun and strange to participate IN the conference instead of hanging out behind the scenes. And I’m thrilled to be going to this particular conference. First of all, for the leaders involved. Brian MacLaren, who I was not able to hear preach at Montreat last summer because I was flying to Ghana at the time but who Russ says is incredible and dynamic. Beth Williams, music leader, who’s chill and awesome and I miced last summer. And Resurrection Dance Theater from Haiti. HELLO.

I’m also particularly looking forward to the theme of the conference. “Wondering Wanderers”. It’s all about questioning, working to discern God’s call for your life, and pilgrimage. You know. Everything I’m dealing with right now. Workshops on everything from Haitian Dance to “how faith quips you to engage with global crises” to learning to communicate between folks with different points of view to being a modern-day pilgrim. Worship every day. Access to MULTIPLE labyrinths. I need a labyrinth right now. And whenever I need a labyrinth, one appears. (because have I mentioned that I’m confused by everything right now? I’m still confused by everything.) Somehow I didn’t realize that I was truly going to College Conference, nor did I realize how relevant this particular conference was to my life until a couple days ago. Funny how God sets that up. Going to this conference actually gives me a giant feeling of relief, which is rather nice.

Also seeing Toubab Krewe tonight. Toubab Krewe is a band from Asheville, North Carolina, who has traveled to West Africa (particularly Mali, Guinea, and Cote d’Ivoire), studied, learned the music of the places they visited, and now play a fusion music of Southern mountain rock and West African music. They play a kora and other indigenious instruments, and I can hear the Malian influence miles away. (I LOVE Malian music. LOVE LOVE LOVE.) I saw Toubab Krewe live at Bele Chere in Asheville last summer, just before I went to Ghana. How appropriate. Also helping with the re-entry process.

I DESPERATELY wish I could form coherent, articulate thoughts at this moment of my life. It’s like I’m finding myself mute and God’s just chuckling at me. Alas. Though, I think the real problem generally comes about if God stops chuckling, so I'll be fine.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

Oh mystery, you are alive, I feel you all around...

They used to say of Pambo that in the hour of his death he said to the holy men standing round, 'From the time that I came into this solitude, and built my cell and lived in it, I do not remember having eaten anything I have not worked for. I have not said anything that I regretted saying. But I still go to the Lord, as one who has not yet made a beginning in the service of God.'

--The Desert Fathers

I have a confession to make.

I don't understand any of this.

This "God" thing.

Sorry. I know I have this blog where I write a lot about God and when you publish something, even just on the internet, you're projecting the idea that you know something about what you're writing about.

I don't. I'm sorry.

It's not for lack of trying. I mean, my degree isn't in religious studies, I haven't gone to seminary (...yet...), but check out my bookshelf and it's religion religion religion. Writings of saints and theologians and mystical poets. Bible commentaries. The Dead Sea Scrolls, Gnostic writings. Holy books from various different religions, not just Christianity. Things about the spiritual in art. Allegorical novels. I was born and raised in the church. In third grade, my Sunday school teacher said that I should just teach the class, I knew it all, even got the significance as much as I could at that age. And I have taught a bit. I was both baptised when I was older, as my own choice, and confirmed. I went through a period of agnosticism which made me critically look at all my beliefs, and make lots of choices when it came to rebuilding my faith. I've worked for two summers operating sound for conferences, hearing speaker after speaker after speaker on all kinds of theological, religious, and social issues. I've tried pretty hard, and as such I have a pretty good understanding of religion.

But this thing called "God"?

I have NO CLUE what I'm talking about.

I watched a documentary about Chartres Cathedral yesterday while wrapping presents. People will often talk about the mystery of that cathedral, how it is the code for some ancient knowledge, and they'll do all they can to figure it out, understand how it was made, analyze it's geometry. And I'll watch this and think, "Yes! I want to spend the rest of my life trying to unlock the mysteries of Chartres" (hello obsessive personality) "because something about God is hidden there!" But even if I dropped everything now and became the foremost scholar of Chartres, I'd never reach that understanding.

It's a mystery.

God.

The world.

All of it.

And for as much as we figure out, we discover so much more that we don't know.

And I, for one, find this endlessly frustrating. I like learning things, I like knowing things, I like understanding things. I'm a good student. I like the sense of accomplishment you get from it. There are so many things I don't understand. The significance is huge and I get it on one level, but on others... I'm blind. I need more senses to get it.

It's something about:

The Virgin Mary
The Crucifixion
The moment in the temple when Jesus was young
The people who came up to Mary when Jesus was a baby proclaiming he was the Messiah
Prophecy
Destiny
Choice
Unity
Infinity
Eternity
Geometry
Water
Color
Art
Sex
Fire
The fact that two thieves were crucified next to Christ
Carols
Intimacy
Zoroastrianism
Need
Connection
Praise
Glory
The Cosmos
Genetics
Cathedrals
Collaboration
Omniscience
Omnipotence
Omnipresence
The Sun
Mangers
The Spirit
Sound
Word
Remembrance
Nyame
The Wind
Myth
Communion
Original Sin
Forgiveness
Synaesthesia
Suffering
Order
Death
Resurrection
God from God, Light from Light
The Beloved
Love
Love
Love
Love
Love
You.

It's huge, it's obvious, it's right in front of me in every moment. In a moment of extreme frustration about all of this I'm not seeing I sent an email to one of my mentors saying, "God's been trying to tell me something about this my ENTIRE LIFE and I'm DAFT and want to slam my head repeatedly into a wall. God's trying to tell me something that's WIRED INTO MY BRAIN AND I'M STILL NOT GETTING IT." Maddening. I've lost sleep over things like this.

And yet...

There are days like today, days like Christmas, where we remember and celebrate the mystery. A birth. A promise. A hope. A beautiful story. I was sitting in church last night (the brief amount of the service where I actually sat) thinking about trying to explain all of this to people who are not religious and I was struck, again, about how I really know nothing. Because at the heart of all of it is a mystery. At the heart of all creation is a mystery. And instead of being discouraging, even instead of being frustrating, the fact that I, really none of us, will never understand became beautiful. Freeing. Even comforting.

Because... it leaves us free to wonder.
to marvel.
to be amazed.
to explore... with the recklessness and curiosity of children. All our lives.

But also because... somehow... you don't need to understand something to be able to act upon it.

Do I know how this is? Nope. Not a clue. I just know that it's true. I feel like Scrooge at the end of A Christmas Carol. 'I don't know what day of the month it is.' said Scrooge. 'I don't know how long I've been among the Spirits. I don't know anything. I'm quite a baby. Never mind. I don't care. I'd rather be a baby. Hallo!'

In great art there is no beginning and end in point of time. All time is comprehended.

--The Art Spirit

In my copy of The Art Spirit, this quote is underlined, boxed several times, and the word "WHAT" is written underneath in giant letters. I ran into this quote recently and flipped, because I know this is something key to the mystery. All time comprehended IS eternity.

I wish I could explain more than that. All we have are hints. Millions in every second.

Oh Mystery, you are alive, I feel you all around.
You are the fire in my heart.
You are the holy sound.
You are all of life. It is to you I sing.
Oh, grant that I may feel you, always in everything.

--"Mystery", Paul Winter, Missa Gaia

I am extraordinarily tired.

I would like to simultaneously talk to you about God for hours, and sit not saying anything for a very long time.

Light another candle. Burn some incense. Pray. The life's work is figuring all this out, and it will never be complete. Thanks be to God for that. Maybe it's actually the work of all humanity, and we have to get over the idea that we'll figure it all out in our lives. It's building a cathedral. You give your life over to a product you may never see, but you still know is worth it.

Merry Christmas.

Friday, December 24, 2010

All is calm.

Poemen said, 'Whatever hardship comes upon you, it can be overcome by silence.'

--The Desert Fathers

Ah, Christmas Eve. Time to relax, read The Polar Express, and stay up all night listening for reindeer, right?

Wrong.

Christmas Eve is, without a doubt, the busiest day of the year in the households of, I'd say, anyone who works in a church. Since both my parents work in churches, Christmas Eve has always been the stressful, "don't push your mother's buttons" day of the year. Bon Air has three services on Christmas Eve - the "children and families" service at 5pm, the evening service at 7pm, and the candlelight service at 11pm. Not to mention participating in the Living Nativity when I was in youth group. I would be a shepherd so I'd get to play with the baby goats. It used to be that my family didn't eat dinner on Christmas Eve--there simply wasn't time. Then another family in the church realized we didn't eat on Christmas Eve and made us food for several years. Let's not even mention the years when Christmas Eve is on a Sunday. Now, things are slightly less busy, but I'm still heading over to church around 4:30 to bring my mother some dinner. I have no responsibilities for the 7pm service, but at 11pm I'm serving communion (YAY!) and reading scripture (also yay!). I'm not singing as of yet, but we still have... 8 hours for my mother to say, "Epworth's singing this song that you've sung before, sing with the altos."

But in the craziness, I love it. It's a familiar crazy that returns every year.

When I was in New York last week, I was walking along Broadway and happened to pass the church I attend there. I noticed that the doors were open and the doorman was out front. He's usually only there for services, he's not around just when the church building is open (and it wasn't visiting hours at that time), so I crossed the street to see what was going on. He saw me coming, yelled, "YOU'RE BACK!" and gave me a huge hug. He asked if I was coming inside. I asked what was going on, and he told me it was the church school's Christmas pageant. So I went on in and watched. Adorable.

We sang along with the hymns, and when we reached "Silent Night", this incredible feeling of peace came over me, and I realized it's because I'm used to singing "Silent Night" at the near-end of the 11pm Christmas Eve service. By that time, it's technically Christmas Day... midnight has passed, the lights in the church have been turned off and everyone in the church holds a lit candle as we sing this song. It's a beautiful, quiet, tender moment before the organ lets loose and the lights come up and we boisterously belt out "Joy to the World". If there is ever a moment in my life that is still, it is this moment on Christmas Eve/Morn. It's the moment where all tremors cease. And it's just a moment. Only a moment, out of all the days of the year, but sometimes it's just those brief moments that we need, especially in this busy time. A moment, to remember, to reconnect, to remember why we do all of this. Because the point of all of this is Christ.

More on that tomorrow.

There are moments in our lives, there are moments in a day, when we seem to see beyond the usual--become clairvoyant. We reach then into reality. Such are the moments of our greatest happiness. Such are the moments of our greatest wisdom.

--The Art Spirit

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Us.

A few weeks ago, several of us gathered in one of the living rooms in our dorm and watched Hotel Rwanda. (Add to the list of great movies to watch in Africa...) I'd seen the movie when it came out, but that was a while ago and I knew very little about Africa in general at that time. The thing that really got to us that night was the scene in which all the foreign nationals are evacuated. You see them all being loaded onto buses, and when they leave, it's like the Rwandans are being abandoned, like the world has said, "This is too much for the rest of us. You guys have to deal with this on your own," in a situation the Rwandans are not equipped to handle without outside help. That got to us because we knew that if something suddenly happened in Ghana, that would be us. That the US government would do all it could to get us out of there, and we'd be whisked away leaving the friends we had made, the people we had come to love. We were quite conflicted about this--on one hand, there wouldn't be anything we could really DO about the situation, staying there. On the other hand, how could we abandon the people who had so graciously brought us into their lives and culture and created homes away from home for us?

Now, I'm sitting in Virginia keeping up with the situation in Cote d'Ivoire. When I checked articles this morning, the UN estimated around 50 people had died. I checked again just now, and the death count is up to at least 173, with the situation getting worse and worse. Hospitals have reported that they've been ordered not to treat people who come with injuries received in political protests. Since all the borders have been closed for several weeks now, food supplies are growing scarce and overpriced. Possible ethnic group tensions are rising. The country is about 2 inches away from returning to civil war. I'm sitting here in the comfort of my childhood bed in Virginia looking at news reports quite helplessly.

What is there to be done?

It's very easy to give up in what we're doing. It'd be very easy for me to say, "What place does theater have in a world that's hurting so desperately?" It'd be easy to say that about any of our careers. Why aren't we giving everything up to join the efforts of some NGO working to do something about these major problems the world faces? It would help us feel like we're doing something, at least.

What we must remember, though, is that there are many ways to make a difference in the world. Cheesy? Sure, but relevant and important. There are many forms of ministry, there are many forms of peacemaking, and we should never fall into the trap of thinking that there's nothing we can do from where we are. Sure, there might be situations that are completely out of our hands. But we can work towards those larger goals of peace, equality, justice, from wherever we are and in whatever we do.

The world is globalizing rapidly. Newspapers, photography, television, the internet, Facebook, Twitter. The world, as a whole, is becoming more and more accessible. We're exposed to more and more different cultures all the time, which is thrilling and absolutely enriching and also means that we could go through culture shock while sitting in our own living rooms. It is going to be VITALLY important for upcoming generations to have a global awareness, and to be able to communicate cross-culturally. To communicate cross-culturally, you must have respect for others, a curiousity that will allow you to wonder "why?" when you encounter something you consider strange. You must be able to suspend judgment until that "why?" is answered. And to foster peace and justice, you must care for these others. You must love people you may not understand. Which can be rather difficult, but is the most important endeavor you can possibly undertake.

Because yes, there are things to be done in the immediate. There is work to be done, so much work. There is aid and relief that needs to happen for these wounds the world is suffering from. But the only way we can look towards lasting change and healing is to work to change people's attitudes. To help each other learn how to live together, how to function with each other. How, ultimately, to love each other.

And that work is largely accomplished not by WHAT we do, but HOW we do it. How travel through life. How we regard each person we come across. All of us, in all of our lines of work, be it theater or music or ministry or teaching or business or waiting tables, all of us can treat others with genuine respect, curiosity, care, and love. That is apparent in our actions, and there are hundreds of opportunities for us each day to lead by this example. Make a connection with someone. Anyone. Everyone. Briefly. You don't have to learn their whole life story, but treat the cashier at Walgreens like they're a person, not a machine, the next time you're there. This sounds so basic and maybe even trivial, but until we start treating people like PEOPLE in our everyday lives, how can we expect a move towards humanity across the world? How else do you think it starts?

Hilarion once came from Palestine to Antony on the mountain: and Antony said, 'Welcome, morning star, for you rise at break of day.' Hilarion said, 'Peace be unto you, pillar of light, for you sustain the world.'

--The Desert Fathers

The very essential quality of all really great men is their intense humanity.

--The Art Spirit

We have the ability to set intentions for our actions. We can decide, "I want to get this this and that done today," but we can also say, "I want to get this this and that done today, and I want to bless everyone I interact with while doing it." We have that power, but it's not activated until we ourselves make that choice. The choice to change our work from accomplishment of goals (put up a production of a play, preach a sermon, file TPS reports, cook fish) to positively affecting the lives of others. Why do you do what you do? I cannot think of a single thing that can't be used to teach yourself and others how to love. And what else is there in life? Life isn't some race to see who can get the most money and own the most land and the most cars. The world seems to tell us it is, but when you have it all, what's left for you? I am a solid introvert (Ghana proved that) with far more social anxiety than I'd like to admit, but even I can still see that cultivating relationships with people is really a lot more fulfilling than objects. It's more fun. And it's free! (mostly.) You CAN live life not caring, I suppose. But why would you want to? Because if you care you might get hurt? Not feeling anything is far worse than feeling hurt.

There is work to be done in the immediate, patching up situations as they arrive. Absolutely. But we must, wherever we are, in whatever we do, work to strike at the root of the problem. And grace is that that work can be done in each breath we take.

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Order. Design. Composition. Tension. Balance. Harmony.

A brother asked a hermit, 'What must I do to be saved?' He took off his clothes, and put a girdle about his loins and stretched out his hands and said, 'Thus ought the monk to be: stripped naked of everything, and crucified by temptation and combat with the world.'

--The Desert Fathers

A student is one who struggles with himself, struggles for order.

--The Art Spirit


What is there without conflict?

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Here I come, but I ain't the same...

Hyperichius said, 'The watchful monk works night and day to pray continually: but if his heart is broken and lets tears flow, that calls God down from heaven to have mercy.'

--The Desert Fathers

We have our choice of living in the past or the future--the present being but for an instant--not that of course, in fact. In the future there is the reality.

--The Art Spirit

So. (by request) Re-entry. Part 1.

I didn't give myself much "downtime" to recover, which was smart. I spent less than 48 hours in Virginia, during which I saw a show, then I popped up to New York to surprise everyone. Very very few people knew I was coming up, so I got to reap the rewards of shock value. (My history of exploiting the shock value of things goes all the way back to 8th grade when I first shaved my head.) While I had enough confidence to believe that people had missed me and would be quite happy to see me, I was not prepared for the amount of enthusiasm upon my arrival.

I wanted to see the Musical Theater Practicum show on Tuesday night... but my plane arrived too late. I considered just waiting to show up at PHTS until the next day, but it was EXTRAORDINARILY cold, so I ended up popping inside the building to be somewhere warm as I figured out what to do. As I walked in, I saw some of the actors (all people I knew) outside the theater, waiting. After giving them hugs and telling them how sorry I was that I was unable to see their show, that my plane JUST got in, they said, "You should sneak in with us. There's a big scene change in a blackout, we walk in, then walk right behind the audience to pick up chairs. You'd have to stand in the back, but you'd get to see at least the last part." So, that's what I did. And standing in the back, I noticed that right in front of me, on the back corner chair, was Lindsay, one of the few people who knew I was coming up. I put my hand on her shoulder, she turned, and I'm VERY impressed she didn't scream, but instead whispered, "sit in my seat!" So I hopped up and sat down and saw the ending of the show.

(I have never been so happy to be in the White Box. I don't think anyone has ever been so happy to be in the White Box.)

I'm not sure exactly how it happened that people noticed me. I know one of the actors who snuck me in started pointing at me after the curtain call. I know another one of my friends looked over, saw me, screamed, and began to cry. I just know it was a really good thing I got off the riser quickly or else I would have gotten knocked down. I was positively attacked by hugs. I heard students and teachers alike shouting, "Colleen's here!" "Colleen's back!" "When did she get here?!"

(my friend Steven and I, after I ran into him randomly in the Tisch building. Our faces sum up most of my encounters)

The next few days were filled with similar encounters. I spent all of Wednesday at PHTS. Really. All of it. I went to an acting class in the morning where some of my best friends were doing a scene from Sweeney Todd. (Sweeney's "Johanna". Amy-as-Sweeney killed me. It's been one of my life dreams to be killed in Sweeney. Thanks, Amy!) Mostly I sat in the office, or on a bench in the 4th floor lobby, running into people and soaking up the feeling of being in that building. One of my first year acting teachers saw me at the computers in the office, and said, "It's so good to see you hanging around here all the time again." One of my former teachers didn't recognize me. Actually, truly, didn't recognize me. I thought he was being facetious but then he realized who I was. The double-takes were rather impressive all around, because here I was, back from Africa, wearing dresses (with color!), with hair, and a tan.

On the one hand... it felt so good to be back there. So so so incredibly good. My blood even seemed to race as I walked through those hallways. I missed it. I missed the people. I even (sometimes) missed the stress of it. In many ways I am so comfortable there. I love the place, I love the people, dearly, extremely. And while I knew that my return would be delightful, I didn't expect that amount of love to be poured out towards me. I was expecting more along the lines of, "It'll be awesome because I'm going to see all these people I love!" and it was that, but it was also, "And that love is absolutely reciprocated! Oh, how nice!" And when you come back from a crazy, life-changing, challenging semester in Ghana, that's something which is absolutely invaluable, which I am inexpressibly grateful for.

On the other hand...

New York City is weird. Right? WEIRD. I got off the LIRR at Penn Station and went to walk to the NRW subway line, and I looked like some confused tourist, staring up at the buildings (which had never seemed that tall before) and looking around at the fast-moving crowds with my face contorted into a question. I said, "I live here?"

Theater is weird. So weird. I can't even say how it's weird but it's a strange, strange thing we do. And the conversations we have around it? They're BIZARRE. I don't know what standard of normality I'm holding it up to, I'm extraordinarily inarticulate about this (sorry PHTS!), but it's definitively strange. I had this moment watching the PHTS 4th Year Company production of Golden Boy, which was fabulous and not really that "strange" of a production as far as theater goes (it wasn't super abstract or avant-garde, you didn't find out that nothing exists or that all the characters are actually mutant hedgehogs or something), but I thought, "Theater is such a strange creature." I don't understand it. I mean, I do, but I don't at all. I was around people having intelligent conversations about shows that had happened this semester, and I sat there silently, listening with bemusement. Not that I was feeling out of the loop because I hadn't seen any of these shows, but rather that I was listening to this specific kind of conversation... which is a kind of conversation I know, I understand, I'm really good at participating in, I understood the rules of all of it, but now I was listening to this conversation with an outside ear that says, "What?" Not that it's pointless, just that it's odd. I even participated in such conversations. I sat at a cafe in the East Village discussing the artistic properties of microphones for musicals in small spaces, and it wasn't like that part of my brain didn't want to be woken up, it was thrilling, but it's strange.

I really wish I knew another way to articulate it.

And meanwhile, I've just gotten back from an experience that's totally outside everything I've known in my life. That's quite alien (though relevant) to the two floors that compose PHTS. Things have changed, clearly, but I don't even know how yet, and neither does anyone else. And while everyone knows that my experience must have been life-changing, we don't know what that means yet, and it's hard to wrap our heads around that so I (generally speaking) have been met with people expecting who they saw when I left. I'm curious at the phrase "Welcome back!" because it implies that the same person is returning. And I know I AM the same person, but things are different and I don't think any of us are able to figure out what whole balance yet. Not this soon after my arrival, and certainly not in the time span of the few hours I spent with people. I think all of these things will become clear with time, and patience, and it'll probably be halfway through next semester when people really start to notice things that are different.

But what that means for right now is that there seems to be this strange wall, this disconnect between me and the world I'm re-entering. I got to see both of my roommates from Ghana (at separate times) while I was in New York, and having breakfast with Madi on Saturday, we both expressed this feeling of being completely unrooted. It's not a constant "I want to go back to Ghana," feeling, we feel that in many ways we can't go back to Ghana, we don't belong there... but we don't belong here, either. We don't belong anywhere. It's losing a sense of home, which is very disconcerting.

But PHTS still completely feels like home.
But also not at all.
It's a strange tremor I'm in.

And I know that I just have to be patient, that eventually I'll come to a feeling that I actually belong EVERYWHERE or something similarly optimistic, but right now is the transition period. I always want to rush through the transition periods because they're awkward and uncomfortable, but they're actually the most important.

I went to see Fela! on Broadway. People have been telling me to see Fela! ever since it was off-Broadway, but I was stupid and didn't. Fela Anikulapo Kuti was a Nigerian musician who invented Afrobeat (along with Tony Allen). Ghana and Nigeria share a lot of cultural history, particularly music, and Fela, pre-Afrobeat, was really into Highlife, a Ghanaian form of popular music (thus, Highlife had a good influence on Afrobeat.) Fela was highly politically active, obnoxious, a jerk, and brilliant. One of my professors this semester worked with Fela on his film Black President, and ended up living with him for an additional month when the Nigerian government seized his passport, so he has plenty of crazy Fela stories. I saw Tony Allen perform about a month ago and it was absolutely incredible. One of my favorite parts of being in Ghana was seeing live music. The atmosphere, the dancing... Ghanaians dance. If the music is good, you dance, no one is left sitting back in their seats. You dance, you banter with the performers, you participate, and the music is fabulous. Really, truly, SO GOOD. (I'm not even going to go into what my synaesthesia does when I listen to Afrobeat except to say that I see no need for me ever to do hallucinogenic drugs when I can just listen to Afrobeat.)

So, naturally, I was excited to see this musical, figuring it'd be a good re-entry coping activity, and curious as to how this atmosphere would adapt to a New York audience. As an added bonus, Fela! was (is) playing in the Eugene O'Neill Theater, which is my most beloved Broadway theater. I had not stepped foot into the Eugene O'Neill since September 3rd, 2006, when Sweeney Todd closed. I know that theater better than any other Broadway house. Even though I think I've seen the same number of performances at the St. James, where the most recent revival of Gypsy played, the Eugene O'Neill was my sanity for a year. For a while, my entire sense of navigation in New York City was based on where the Eugene O'Neill was. (much like my navigation of Boston is still based on where the Colonial Theater is, where Sweeney Todd played on tour.)

I splurged on a good seat for Fela!, knowing the theater well, and knowing that I was going to be obnoxious and decked out in everything I got in West Africa and wanting to be up close. They built a runway jutting off of the stage right side which took out some of the seats. I sat front row, a solo seat right by that runway/the aisle.

(the red box is where I sat for Fela!. the black ones are seats I sat in for Sweeney.)

So I went, and it was incredible. Everything was so familiar. The feel of the room, the fabrics they were wearing, their accents, the little vocal expressions I'd come to love. The snap-handshake. The music, obviously. The colors. All of it. Fela's image was cleaned up a little bit (my professor said, "Oh, everyone loves him now that he's dead and they don't have to deal with him,"). The only thing that was not familiar was the fact that everyone was sitting back in chairs. But, they did have us get up and dance, which I thought was a great solution to the New Yorker problem. I had a good enough idea of Fela's life and career that I was able to anticipate certain things, I knew some information before the musical gave it. (He said, "I have an idea for a film," and I literally whispered, "Black President?!" and then he said, "Black President!" Then I died.) I wore this halter dress I had made in Ghana, and tons of jewelry, and it was warm enough in the theater that it was almost like I was back. There was a brief talkback afterwards that I don't think I was "supposed" to stay for, but no one stopped me. Then I went back to the dorm I was staying in and had a super interesting conversation with my former roommate, Gillian, who had also seen Fela! that night, and clearly had a completely different experience having not been in West Africa listening to Afrobeat for four months.

Last night I sat down with my parents and watched Blood Diamond, which is about Sierra Leone's civil war about 10 years ago. We watched Blood Diamond our first full day in Africa... which is not exactly something I recommend. Sierra Leone is in West Africa, further west of Ghana (from Ghana, you'd have to cross through Cote d'Ivoire then either Liberia or Guinea to get to Sierra Leone). The difference between the first time I saw Blood Diamond, and now, is that now a lot more of that film is familiar, in the way Fela! was. The landscape, the architecture, some of the accents. I was sitting at the lectern in Bon Air at the Christmas Concert on Sunday, shortly after drumming for "Hope for Resolution", which included a South African freedom song from the apartheid era. And all three of these times, at Fela, after Blood Diamond, at the concert, I've thought about Africa and thought, "Wait... I lived there?" I remember landing in Accra for the first time, thinking, "What have I gotten myself into?" Now I'm here thinking, "What did I just do?" And, "Am I now expected to return to my former life like this didn't happen?" The answer is no, of course not, but how do I reconcile that with this?
How do you cope when the familiar is strange?

I light a candle that I got at Chartres and stare at it for hours and try to be patient.

I'm glad I didn't give myself a lot of recovery time. I glad I went up to New York, saw everyone, became even more confused. Now it's time for some rest. Some time to think, get myself somewhat together. I have a meeting with a mentor of mine who also just spent his semester in a developing country on the 10th, so that'll be another good check-in point on the re-entry process. I'm lining up more meetings with directors. Constructing a life again.

We'll see.

Monday, December 20, 2010

Mother Mary heard...

Find and lose.

--The Art Spirit

I have started to become obsessed with Mary. The Virgin Mary, Mary Mother of God. I'd never really paid much attention to Mary Mother of God before, having always related more to Mary Magdalene. (When we visited a mosque in Northern Ghana, and had our head scarves on, my friend Cristann told me, "You look like Mary." I said, "Thank you!" She specified, "Magdalene." I said, "...of course.") But, then I went to France. And they're OBSESSED with the Virgin Mary. All those churches named "Notre Dame de" , part of what is referred to as "the cult of the Virgin", this near-worship of Mary. I know, I know, it's a Catholic thing, but there's really something about the French and Mary that I'm quite curious about. French cathedrals infected me with Mary-obsession.

In church yesterday, we sang the hymn "To a Maid Engaged to Joseph", which made me think about the whole encounter between Mary and Gabriel.

The story is, Mary's a teenage virgin betrothed to Joseph, and she's visited by the angel Gabriel, who says, "CONGRATS! You're so blessed!" Mary is a bit frightened, as is understandable when you're being approached by a surprisingly complimentary heavenly being. So Gabriel says, "Don't be scared, God likes you a lot, you're gonna have a child! God's child!"

To which Mary says, "Uh.. no I'm not, I'm a virgin."

Then Gabriel's like, "This is GOD we're talking about here."

Now, it is often discussed in religious circles what a problem this is for Mary. She's engaged, she's really not supposed to be pregnant, she could very easily get stoned for this, because who's going to believe that an angel came and told her she was pregnant with God's child? This is creating a rather awkward situation. Joseph really has three options 1) marry her (unlikely) 2) dismiss her quietly, 3) have her stoned. Whether she dies or not, this is the ruin of her life as she knows it. I have to wonder if Mary's response ("Behold, I am the handmaid of the Lord, let it be to me according to your word,") was more of a capitulating, "So be it!" than a joyous acceptance of the role she was about to play. (after all, it's not until she went to visit Elizabeth that she sings the Magnificat.)

What keeps getting me is Gabriel's salutation. "Rejoice, you highly favored one! The Lord is with you. Blessed are you among women!"

"Hey Mary! Guess what! You're so lucky, God's going to plunge you into a really terrible situation where even on the off chance that your future husband believes you, the entire community you're around will shun you and despise you and think you're a lunatic, probably for your entire life. Also you get to raise God's son (no pressure), who's probably going to be rather difficult to discipline because he's GOD, after all. And, you know, according to the prophecies he's going to be rejected and despised by all men and suffer a terrible death which you'll probably be around for, so have fun dealing with that one."

Of course. This is so typical of God.

And yet, it is so true.

When God comes in and says, "I'm going to ruin all of your plans. I'm going to shake up everything you know and I'm going to make you confused and terrified,"... those are the moments we know that we are blessed beyond measure.

There was a hermit who was often ill. But one year he did not fall ill and he was very upset and wept saying, 'The Lord has left me, and has not visited me.'

--The Desert Fathers

Sunday, December 19, 2010

I want you, and you, and nothing but you.

They said that on Saturday evening Arsenius used to turn his back to the setting sun and stretch out his hands towards heaven and pray until, at down on Sunday, the rising sun lit up his face, and then he sat down again.

--The Desert Fathers

You go into a great cathedral and the impression may be deep upon you. Must you define what you have felt? If you can you are a poet--an artist. There are cathedrals which have measures of great and many meanings.

--The Art Spirit



Really, the only thing to do is truly realize that there is nothing but God. Then everything falls into place. Of course, that's a full life's work... if you're quick about it.

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Times have changed, and times are strange...

The current contradiction of my life:

A hermit said, 'A tree cannot bear fruit if it is so often transplanted. So it is with the monk.'

--The Desert Fathers

By a compelling impulse a man goes for a day in the woods. Just why the impulse came to break his usual habit he does not know clearly, rather wonders at it, but there is some vague thought of freedom. He plunges into the rough parts of the wood, climbs under and over. He runs wild. He tears his clothes--but it does not matter. The business of his progress is met with enthusiastic energy and time passes as in a dream. And concurrent with his action there is thought of a surprising fluid character. His attitude toward the life he has just stepped out of has wholly changed. Intricacies untangle. He sees people in new values. Bitter feelings have disappeared. He is over and above all petty grudges, envies or fears. Something has happened. The spirit of the wood has possessed him. He has got into the rhythm. Surely he is no longer in his usual plane of life. It is a day of clear seeing.

Later, days later, in his office he cannot recall just what it was that passed--just what that ecstasy of the wood really meant, but he has a memory that he had seen into his life, and had seen it from a different angle and in a way that simplified many matters.

--The Art Spirit


Back in VA after a whirlwind trip to New York City. Exhausted. Very glad I went--supremely smart decision as far as helping the re-entry process, but I need to stay put for a little bit, now. The word that keeps coming up is "confusion". Which is good, but need a bit of time to process. Very excited to go back to Bon Air tomorrow (Christmas Concert! 5pm! It's not just a concert it's worship and involves Africa and Rumi and my drum!).

Friday, December 17, 2010

City on fire...

I wonder when, as a nation, we shall ever learn the difference between freedom and looseness, between restriction and destruction--so far we certainly have not. When people have the courage to think honestly, they will live honestly, and only through transparent honesty of life will a new civilization be born. The people who think and live sincerely will bear children who have a vision of tr truth, children living freely and beautifully. We must have health everywhere if we are to overcome such civilizations as we see falling to pieces today, not only health of body, but health of mind. Humanity today is diseased, it is proving itself diseased in murder, fire, hideous atrocity.


--The Art Spirit

A hermit said, 'We do not make progress because we do not realize how much we can do. We lose interest in the work we have begun, and we want to be good without even trying.'


--The Desert Fathers

Ivory Coast Troops Fire on Protesters
New York Times (Adam Nossiter), December 16th, 2010

Security forces loyal to President Laurent Gbagbo of Ivory Coast opened fire on demonstrators in the economic capital, Abidjan, on Thursday, beating and killing marchers who had planned to disrupt state television, one of the principal underpinnings of the government’s hold on power, according to observers and news reports.

A leading Ivorian human rights group said at least 15 people had been killed among the crowds of supporters of Alassane Ouattara, who was elected president last month in a long-delayed vote but has been unable to assume office because Mr. Gbagbo has refused to step down.

Estimates of the scale of violence varied widely. Mr. Ouattara’s camp said 32 people were killed Thursday, while Amnesty International said that 9 were killed and news agencies reported death tolls between 6 and 18.

A police spokesman for Mr. Gbagbo’s government declined to provide specifics in a phone interview, saying, “I know nothing about it.” But Mr. Gbagbo’s education minister said on state television that 20 people had died, 10 of whom were police officers attacked by armed protesters, news agencies reported.

Mr. Ouattara has been recognized as the winner of last month’s election by the United Nations, the African Union, the United States and the European Union, leaving Mr. Gbagbo in near-total diplomatic isolation. But he has resisted repeated calls to cede the office he has had for 10 years, the last five of which he held without an election.

The country’s top elections officer proclaimed Mr. Ouattara the winner on Dec. 2, by a nearly nine-point margin. Only a day later, the head of the Constitutional Council, who is a close ally of the president, threw out vote totals from parts of the north — the stronghold of Mr. Ouattara — because of what he called “flagrant irregularities,” leading both men to claim the presidency.

The deadly standoff between the rival presidents appeared to be broadening on Thursday, as armed forces associated with the Ouattara camp clashed with Mr. Gbagbo’s troops on the streets of Abidjan, as well as in a town in the center of the country. The town, Tiebissou, is just south of a de facto border separating the northern half of the country — which has been controlled and exploited by rebels, known as the New Forces, since a 2002 civil war — from the south, which is controlled by Mr. Gbagbo. Mr. Ouattara’s prime minister, Guillaume Soro, is the secretary general of the New Forces.

Abidjan endured a day of tear gas, gunfire and loss on Thursday, as demonstrators confronted well-armed security forces all over the city. At one point, Mr. Gbagbo’s forces fired on a Ouattara position, a spokesman for Mr. Ouattara said, leaving one dead.



I know people from Cote d'Ivoire. I know people currently in Cote d'Ivoire.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Was it ever real?

A hermit who was anxious went to Theodore of Pherme and told him all about it. He said to him, 'Humble yourself, put yourself in subjection, go and live with others.' So he went to a mountain and there lived with a community. Later he returned to Theodore and said, 'Not even when I lived with other men did I find rest.' He said to him, 'If you're not at rest as a hermit, nor when you're in a community, why did you want to be a monk? Wasn't it in order to suffer? Tell me, how many years have you been a monk?' He said, 'Eight.' Theodore said, 'Believe me, I've been a monk for seventy years, and I've not been able to get a single day's peace. Do you except to have peace after only eight years?'

--The Desert Fathers

The true character of the student is one of great mental and spiritual activity.

--The Art Spirit

How I feel about being where I am changes on a minute-to-minute basis. It's quite exhausting, actually. I keep wanting to come to some definite conclusion and must remind myself to be patient with myself. Much to write about, including the triumphant return to PHTS, the strange return to New York, and the delightful West African experience that is Fela! (the Broadway musical that basically is the past 4 months of my life), but I'm currently in New York soaking up everything I can. I will leave you, however, with an anecdote:

I was on the subway going to Fela last night. Wearing a dress that is far too light for this weather, but I was determined to go to Fela! and be obnoxiously "I JUST GOT BACK FROM WEST AFRICA" (Fela! is set in Nigeria, which is almost next door to Ghana and shares a LOT of musical/visual history with Ghana... highlife, a Ghanaian form of music, was referenced several times in the musical... they're the two British colonies in the area so there's a lot they have in common). So I was wearing a dress obviously made in Ghana, loaded up with jewelry, the works. (bundled up and with tights, of course.) And I had my bag with me... which is actually the bag for my drum, a kente-print bag.

So I got on the subway, and did that vague scan-of-who's-on-the-subway that all New Yorkers do and pretend not to be doing. Sitting across from me was a Muslim man (could tell by the hat) who looked African. Not African-American... African. Didn't think much of him, but then a couple minutes later, I noticed him smiling at me. Not creepily at all, just smiling, so I looked at him, he looked at my bag, then at me, and grinned. And I grinned back. We didn't say anything to each other, but he got off at Times Square and nodded to me as he passed.

It was a nice, "Yes, that place is real, that place is relevant, everything that happened, happened" moment.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

I am reaching, but I fall...

He also said, 'The tools of the soul are these; to cast oneself down in God's sight; not to lift oneself up; and to put self-will behind one.'

and

A hermit said, 'If a man prepares for the next day, it cuts away the fruit of his spirit and leaves him dry.'

--The Desert Fathers

God called me out yesterday and it hurt, though it was absolutely necessary.  So I can find no Art Spirit quote that's appropriate for the situation, and, indeed, am finding it difficult to explain it in non-religious terms, except to perhaps say that it is extremely important where you put your focus, and if that focus strays, you risk falling off the path completely.

But, forgiveness is swift, if we choose to accept it. I think so often we opt not to choose forgiveness in order to bask in negativity and, more temptingly, hold onto the ideas we had before. Accepting forgiveness means letting go.

I'm not sure that I've done anything to truly warrant the welcome I received yesterday when the Musical Theater Practicum show at PHTS ended and people realized I was sitting in the back row, after having been snuck in by the actors when my plane landed too late for me to catch the whole thing. (I do have friends, I do have a lot of friends, and I have no idea what I offer them to make them so supportive.) I'm not sure I've ever felt so much concentrated love coming at me at once. I guess that means I've done something right in the past 3.5 years, though I think most of that reaction is grace being poured out to me. I certainly don't deserve it, but... thank you.

Monday, December 13, 2010

And it spread

Things that are confusing:

1. IT'S SNOWING. SNOW. WHAT IS THIS NONSENSE.
2. Elevators.
3. Showers with consistent temperatures.
4. Fast service at restaurants.
5. People not dancing in church.
6. Sleeping in not a bunk bed.
7. Only hitting a few spots of traffic.
8. The fact that I can't go down the street and get an egg sandwich.
9. The fact that I can't walk across the courtyard to see my friends.
10. My closet.

In that place when Ephriam of holy memory was a boy, he saw in sleep, or by revelation, that a vine was planted on his tongue and it grew and filled the whole earth with very great fruitfulness and so all the birds of the air came and ate the fruits of that vine and spread it further.

--The Desert Fathers

When Wagner came into the world it was very different from when he left it, and he was one of the men who made the changes. Such people are very disturbing. They often create trouble, we can't sleep when they're around. If the art galleries of the future are to be crowded with spectators it will depend wholly on the students. If there had been no such disturbers as Wagner, auditoriums would not now be filled with listeners.

--The Art Spirit

Well... we're back. Facebook statuses, text messages, Twitter updates show that we're all back and were up rather early this morning because 7am here is noon in Ghana. One of the first things I did was hang my NYU in Ghana strip of kente on my wall right by my bed.

Now, we all start the process of integrating what we've learned. Sharing and spreading ideas. There's an idea that's common in Africa that one person's education doesn't belong to them. (it's a collectivist society.) But if someone from a village leaves and receives an education, they are then meant to return and share the benefits of that education with the village. I agree with this philosophy. Anything I've learned is not just for me. What good is it if it's just for me? The question now becomes about how we communicate all that we've learned. And that's going to be a very interesting process to go through.

Saturday, December 11, 2010

When the end comes...

A hermit said, 'As the order of monks is more honorable than that of the men of the world, so the travelling monk out to be in every way a mirror for the monks of the places where he stays.'

--The Desert Fathers

I dislike goodbyes.

I like having conversations with people before we don't see each other for long periods of time, but when it's likely that I'll never see someone again, I hate goodbyes. I would much prefer to just fade out of people's lives. But these past few days have been filled with goodbyes. And I feel very strangely about that.

The most epic goodbye was my goodbye to Jay, one of the people running my community service site. More on them later, but I sat in Jay's room with her for about an hour as she brainstormed all the ways for me not to leave. She's praying that my flight will be cancelled. (Said she's going to go on a fast to make it happen.) We also brainstormed things about how I can get back to Ghana. We determined that right after college, I should get become the manager of the World Bank, and therefore I'll be able to pay off my college debt immediately and come back to Ghana. Jay also hates goodbyes, so we said, "See you on Wednesday," because she's praying for my flight to be cancelled, after all.

Jay: Why can't you just stay one more day?
Me: People are waiting for me.
Jay: YOU'VE BEEN THERE YOUR WHOLE LIFE. WE ONLY GET YOU FOR FOUR MONTHS!

(also:

Jay: You don't like your hair.
Me: No, I don't.
Jay: Oh, my God. You are the FIRST white woman I've ever heard say that.)

The most hilarious goodbye was with the woman who sells grilled plantains on the corner:

Auntie Lydia: Wobɛkɔ fie deɛn?
Me: What?
Auntie Lydia: Wobɛkɔ fie deɛn?
Me: What?
Auntie Lydia: When do you leave?
Me: Tomorrow.
Auntie Lydia: ɔkyena.
Me: Tomorrow, late.
Aunite Lydia: ɔkyena anwummerɛ. It means, 'Tomorrow evening'. Say it.
Me: ɔkyena anwummerɛ.
Auntie Lydia: anwummerÉ›.
Me: anwummerÉ›.
Auntie Lydia: Good.

This is the first time I've left a place I loved and have been unsure if I'll ever return. I really want to make it to Mali sometime in my life, in which case I would definitely stop by Ghana again. And I have people to visit. But really, who knows?

Re-entry is going to be difficult. We knew this before I even left for Ghana, but it comes into focus as the people I've grown close to this semester start to disappear. As I toss old black clothes into the donation pile and new, colorful dresses into my suitcase. As everyone refers to me as "Mama C" and gives me a snap-handshake. As I think about the "How was Ghana?!" question I will get from genuinely interested people and how impossible it's going to be for me to answer. As I look at the weather forecasts and realize it's winter and where did fall go? (Can I just note that right now, Accra is 90 degrees (heat index 97), Richmond is 28 degrees, and New York is 37 degrees? I thought flying into the south would be easier!)

I ask for your patience with me in this process. I'm trying to give myself projects that will help that process (I've been saving more of the "this is how daily life works in Ghana" posts for the days over break where I suddenly realize that I haven't drunk anything from a bag in weeks and get nostalgic), but I know there will be days I'm frustrated and cranky. For my part, when this hits, I will try to minimize the effect this has on those around me. So there are going to be times that I need my space--please don't be offended, it's not that I don't love you, it's that I love you too much to subject you to any bitterness I may be carrying. There will also be times where all I will want to do is gush on about Ghana for hours on end. Again, I ask for your patience, though if I get rather annoying, let me know and I won't be offended. (though you get points if you'll dance around to "Waka Waka" with me.)

There's a lot for me to work through. I'm about to have a really confusing time. But that's a very good thing. Much more discovery to be had.


Slave camp.

Village in Volta.

FAN ICE.

Wli Falls.

Wli Falls.

Workshop with the artist whose work is signed Almighty God, Kumasi.

Abrui Gardens

Colonialism at Abrui Gardens.

Photo credit: Alex Chernow

Central Mosque, Tamale.

Slave camp.

The roomies.

The time we found and ate the only bagels in Accra.

Yup.

Marrying Cristann and a tree.

Donations to the widows in Bolga.

"Wavin' Flag" in Church's courtyard.

Slave camp.

Shea butter production.

Farewell dinner.

That chicken's goin' down.

Harry Potter release: This picture looks like it could have been taken in America.

Jamestown, Accra.

Madi's last cab ride.

Trapped in a tree trunk!

I love these kids. They totally kicked my butt in this board game...

My advice to you is to venture, meet some other difficulties, be a real student.

Real students go out of the beaten paths, wheather beaten by themselves or by others, and have an adventure with the unknown.

There are few /students/ in the schools. They are rare anywhere. And yet it is only who dares to take a chance, who as a real good time in life.

--The Art Spirit

Friday, December 10, 2010

1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8...

Abba Lot went to see Abba Joseph and said to him, 'Abba as far as I can I say my little office, I fast a little, I pray and meditate, I live in peace and as far as I can, I purify my thoughts. What else can I do?' then the old man stood up and stretched his hands towards heaven. His fingers became like ten lamps of fire and he said to him, 'If you will, you can become all flame.'
--The Desert Fathers

I have seen a lot this semester.

I travelled outside the United States for the first time in my life, and went, of all places, to West Africa. To the first sub-Saharan African country to gain independence, merely 53 years ago. I lived somewhere where I was a definitive, obvious minority. I did most of my shopping in open-air markets, bargaining for fair prices on everything from jewelry to taxi rides. I was one of two international students in a class at a Ghanaian university. I ate a lot of pineapple. I spent my Wednesday afternoons playing with street children on a beach in the slums. I visited the slave castle at Elmina, and the slave camp at Paga. I commuted to work via tro-tros. I was proposed to, multiple times. I travelled solo to Takoradi and was smuggled out of a harbor. I navigated tricky situations with men. I had a lot of clothing made. I learned to love plantains and groundnuts. I ate more rice in 4 months than I'd eaten in my entire life prior. I drank water from bags, ice cream from pouches, and gin from sachets. I managed not to fall into open gutters. I took a shortcut to school that was a dirt path by a sewer. I spoke in Twi, and occasionally Ga, and some northern languages I don't even know the name of. I carried a 40 lbs tub of gravel on my head through a rural village in the heat of the day. I got more phone numbers than I'd ever know what to do with. I rode in the front of cabs and chatted with the driver about politics and religion. I tried to convince people that just because I was American did not mean I was rich. I walked on rope bridges through the canopy of a rainforest. I drank palm wine by a bonfire on the beach. I woke up early to see the most beautiful sunrise of my life. I went to the beach in December. I grew hair. I got a tan. I wore my Chacos every day. I took bucket baths. I collaborated with the artist whose work is signed "Almighty God". I went to a palace. I saw a traditional diviner and he talked to me about God. I visited a tribe of non-English speaking, basketweaving widows and orphans. I learned how to make my own pasta sauce. I met someone who reminded me more of Christ than anyone I've ever encountered in my life. I went inside a mosque. I danced with women who spend their days making shea butter. I saw a baobab tree. I was joined with a village in a ceremony of welcome, where there were prayers with libations and I was dressed in traditional fabric. I wove kente. My face was painted and I was sent to sell branu in a market. I bought things off of people's heads. I went to the second longest church service I've ever experienced. I ate pizza at a produce stand that turns into a pizza place at night. I had food that was so spicy I actually started to cry. I got malaria. I stood under a waterfall. I rode a bike through a village in the middle of a funeral. I painted my face with orange pods we found in a garden. I chased chickens. I peed in bushes. I spent nights getting intoxicated, not with substances, but with live, Ghanaian music. I made muffins. I looked up to the sky, often, laughing.

And in the middle of all this, I went to Europe. I visited church after church after church. I saw history and architecture. I ducked into museums that were truly shrines to human acheivement. I drank tea, hot wine, and beer. I went to Fleet Street. I saw shows. I was killed by exchange rates and fixed prices. I sat on a bench outside Notre Dame at night, staring. I climbed the steps to the Prague castle and saw buildings that matched the fall colors. I visited more palaces. I got into photography because everything was just so beautiful. I chatted in English with an Italian man and a Colombian woman at a cafe in France. I heard an orchestra play in Trafalgar Square. I walked along the Charles Bridge at dusk. I walked the labyrinth at Chartres. I attended services at Westminster Abbey, St. Martin-in-the-fields, and Notre Dame de Paris.

And now, I'm leaving. Flying back into Dulles, going back to the church where I was baptized before heading back down to Virginia. Participating in Bon Air's Christmas Concert. Celebrating the last days of Advent with friends and family. Reuniting with my co-workers at reunion and college conference in North Carolina. Eating at Cookout. Drinking Cheerwine. And, eventually, back to New York, to move into my apartment and start my last semester of college. Back to very very busy schedules and very very fast lifestyles.

It's all very confusing.

The major question of the semester has been about how these things can all exist at the same time, in the same world. Going to Tema Station to transfer tro-tros and seeing this beautiful chaos of color, market women shouting, men urinating in the open gutters, beat up buses packed with people in bright clothing competing for space, I think about Grand Central Station, which serves all of the same purposes but vastly differently. And I find it difficult to wrap my head around how much variety exists even in this small section of the world that I have seen this semester.

Meanwhile, I'm getting ready to leave and in that, decisions have to be made. I'm returning to a previous life, but much changed. How do I incorporate the things I've learned? What of my behavior in Ghana can and should transfer to my behavior in New York? I now have a relationship with Africa - more of a relationship than most of the people I know will ever have to Africa. I've spent a formative part of my life here and that cannot be denied. And yet, there was not a day in my time here where I did not hear the word "obroni", which means, "stranger". There is nothing in my family history that biologically links me at all to Africa. In many ways, I wonder what right I have to really let Africa permeate my American life.

What you need is to free yourself from your preconceived ideas about yourself. It will take a revolution to do it, and many times you will think yourself on the road only to find that the old habit has possessed you again with a new preconception. But if you can at least to a degree free yourself, take your head off your heart and give the latter a chance, something may come of it. The results will not be what you expect, but they will be like you and will be the best that can come from you. There will be a lot more pleasure in the doing.
--The Art Spirit

Identity is a tricky little thing. We crave it, and yet it also limits us. It is good, helpful, necessary, to have a strong sense of who you are, where you've come from, but a sense of self should never cut you off from your potential. I'm quite guilty of letting my preconceived ideas of self limit me. A large chunk of my life, I had a very specific way of dressing/presenting myself. All black, a trenchcoat, a bowler hat. I still retain a lot of that, some more out of necessity and default (having a lot of black clothing and being unwilling to just buy a whole new wardrobe/panicking about how to do things like match color let alone deal with patterns after 6.5 years of black), some by choice (I still like the hat and coat a lot), but I've loosened my grip on it. All of that projecting an image of "this is who I am" (an image that is not entirely accurate, but I enjoy the disconnect), which we all do, but we can start to believe that that's all we are. It's not. I'm trying to strike the phrase "I'm not the kind of person who..." from my vocabulary. I had a major identity crisis one night here when I painted my nails while watching Moulin Rouge. I cannot remember the last time I'd painted my nails, and I remember just staring at them the next morning almost panicking, because I associate painting my nails with the endeavor of "trying to catch a guy" and using sensuality to do so. I started thinking about what it would be like to have hair again, and I thought, "Am I the kind of person who has hair?" which might sound a bit absurd but it gets into questions of romance, sensuality, sexuality, even, and I ended up absolutely destroying my nails ripping off the nail polish.

We can say, "I'm not this," but the fact is, we actually are.

Here's how I prove the existence of God: we exist. I'm not saying that our existence is proof that there's some kind of creator, I'm saying that our existence is God. God IS existence. There is NOTHING that is not of God. God is life. I've talked a lot about the idea of God in everything, God in each person, but what that also means is that God is in us. The consequences of that are huge and the responsibilities that come with that are greater. We are part of the phystical manifestation of this essence that lies underneath all, the essence we have come to call "God". It is "the pattern underneath" (hello, The Hidden Sky). It is the Spirit moving within.

And God is infinite.

And that's how all of this can exist in the same world. So much more can, and does, and every time we encounter something different, we start to comprehend a little more of what that means. Every new look brings us closer to the Beloved. Every place we go, every bit of discovery, is a different face of God. The curiousity of the person who loves God must know no bounds. As we valiantly try to understand that which goes beyond understanding, the hunger of that curiousity becomes a driving force. To see. To know. To experience. To be confused. To begin (because all we can do is begin) to understand.

And if God is infinite, we are infinite. Within each one of us is the capacity for all that is in the world, and well as, I suspect, things that are outside of it. We are who we are because of our bodies and our environment and all the things we encounter, and it is our desires, our choices, that determine what we become, but we have all possibilities within us. We hold a spark of infinity in us. The pattern underneath reaches to infinity, and that is inscribed on our membranes. We are limited only by our own perceptions of self, of who we are and are not, of what we do and don't do. We will never be able to comprehend the infinite. And that is why other people are so desperately important. We can only start to comprehend what the pattern is, what God is, what we are... through others. We are all different physical manifestations of the divine consciousness. We each need each other, our individual desires, our quirks and oddities, for us to have any idea of who we are, who God is. The person who can truly grasp the idea of God in everything must fully love everyone, because everyone is their Master, their Beloved, their Self. (hint: Christ.) It's for this reason I cannot wrap my brain around someone having a "soulmate" or "other half". EVERYONE is your soul mate. EVERYONE is your other half. It's not that we're all the same--it's that God is Infinite, All, and One.

So I come back now, this white girl who just spent four formative months of her life in Africa. My coming here was so unlikely, and yet, here I am. I cannot claim any racial connection to this place, barely any cultural connection. But, as said in Blood Diamond, "this red earth, it's in our skin." All of this is, was, somewhere inside me. Somewhere inside all of us.

What we're looking for...

...it's inside of us.
And it's all around us.
It's everything we hear, see, taste, smell, touch.
It's the air we breathe and the people we meet and the things we never thought we'd do.

And really, we'll never know anything. We'll never figure it out. Which means life gets to be constant discovery.